Every PNW sailor’s list has Desolation Sound near the top. The largest marine park in British Columbia, Desolation Sound sits at the upper end of the Strait of Georgia, approximately 100 miles north of Vancouver. Its defining feature is water temperature: surrounded by mountains that reflect heat into the sheltered coves, the water reaches 75–80°F in late July — warmer than the Mediterranean, warmer than any other saltwater in British Columbia, and warm enough for genuine swimming. This is not a metaphor. You will swim.
Getting There
From Seattle, the passage to Desolation Sound is approximately 250 miles. Most boats take 3–5 days north, depending on conditions and the route chosen. Common staging points:
- Seattle → Friday Harbor or Anacortes (Day 1): Clear US customs and provision.
- Friday Harbor → Sidney, BC (Day 2): Cross Haro Strait, clear Canadian customs at the Sidney customs dock. Call CBSA in advance: 1-888-226-7277.
- Sidney → Nanaimo or Pender Harbour (Day 3–4): Up the Strait of Georgia, which can be lumpy in a southerly — check the forecast.
- Pender Harbour → Desolation Sound (Day 5): The final approach through Malaspina Strait.
The recommended guidebook is Don Douglass and Réanne Hemingway-Douglass’ Exploring the South Coast of British Columbia — updated regularly and worth every dollar.
The Sound Itself
Desolation Sound Marine Park encompasses roughly 8,400 hectares and includes dozens of anchorages. The most popular:
Prideaux Haven. The jewel. A complex of interconnected coves with excellent holding in 25–40 feet of water over mud. Gets crowded in peak summer; arrive by 2pm if you want a spot. The water temperature in the inner cove routinely exceeds 75°F.
Refuge Cove. A small store with basic provisions, fuel, and cold beer. The only commercial stop inside the Sound itself. Lines form at the fuel dock in August; be patient.
Gorge Harbour (Cortes Island). South of the Sound proper but spectacular — a dramatic gorge entrance opens into a vast, protected harbor. The Gorge Harbour Marina & Resort has moorage, showers, and a surprisingly good restaurant.
Squirrel Cove (Cortes Island). One of the most beautiful anchorages in BC. A long narrow entrance opens into a lake-like cove. Dinghy to shore; there’s a small First Nations store and the oysters on the beach are extraordinary.
Von Donop Inlet (Cortes Island). A provincial marine park. Long, narrow, and almost completely protected. Kayak the upper inlet at high tide; watch for wildlife.
Canadian Customs
This is the part where boats get into trouble. You MUST report to Canadian customs upon entering Canadian waters. If you’ve cleared in Sidney, you’re good for the duration of your visit to Canadian waters. If you anchored in the Gulf Islands on the way up without clearing, you are technically in violation.
The CBSA NEXUS marine program simplifies this for frequent visitors; the annual fee is modest.
Best Time to Go
Late July to mid-August is peak season for warm water swimming. The tradeoff: crowds. Early July offers nearly as much sun, better availability at anchorages, and cooler but still swimmable water. Mid-August to September is the sweet spot — summer weather holds, crowds thin after the August long weekend, and the light is extraordinary.
Practical Notes
- Charts: CHS charts 3311 (Small Craft Charts) cover the entire route north. Download backup charts to your chartplotter before leaving.
- VHF Weather: Canadian Coast Guard weather broadcasts on WX-2 and VHF 21B.
- Fishing license: A Canadian non-tidal fishing license is required for crabbing and prawning in BC waters.
- Dinghy and outboard: Non-negotiable. Half the best spots are only accessible by dinghy.